| Sofia, Bulgaria - Susprisingly Good! |
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| Written by Jason Smart | |||||
| Monday, 21 January 2008 | |||||
Page 1 of 3 The woman operating
border control at Sofia
Airport certainly looked
striking enough. In her twenties, dark skin - almost Greek-looking, her face
caught my attention first. Dyed, red-orange hair and heavily made-up eyes
greeted me as I approached the booth. She said nothing as she scanned my
passport and I was soon out the other side. ?Did you see that woman?s eyelashes?? I said to
Angela.
Angela nodded and smiled.
Driving into the city centre involved passing
block after block of Soviet-style apartment blocks. Most were in major
disrepair, but obviously lived in. Cyrillic lettering on road signs and
billboards made everything look distinctly Russian. But what took up most of
our attention was the taxi meter. It was running hell bent for leather.
Before our trip to the Bulgarian capital, I?d
done a little research. A taxi journey into the city centre should have cost in
the region of 10 Lev (£3.50) but at the half way stage, our fare was already up
to 25 Lev. I thought back to how we?d ended up in this particular cab. Avoiding the touts in the arrival?s hall of the
airport, Angela and I had stepped outside the hellishly hot 39?C temperatures,
soon spotting a waiting taxi. Approaching the driver, I handed him the address
of our hotel, and while he rang someone, presumably to find out a price, a man
in his late twenties approached us from behind. ?Zis is not official taxi,? he
said. ?Watch out for this man. He will rip you off! Official taxi over there -
look.?
We both looked to where the man was pointing.
There was another yellow taxi parked by itself, just across a road. I grabbed
the address off the taxi driver, still on the phone, and thanked the man behind
us. He smiled and shrugged. We headed across the road and the driver
immediately got out, already opening the boot for our luggage.
?How much to this hotel,? I asked him as I
passed him the address.
The man shrugged. ?I not sure. I not do this
trip before.?
Alarm bells started ringing, but I ignored
them. Angela was already loading the bag into the back. ?Can you give a rough
price though?? I pressed.
The driver smiled. ?Sorry. No! Nevertheless, it
will be on meter. Please, get in. Come.?
We did, and as soon as we set off, the metre
began going up like the clappers, finally stopping on fifty Lev (£17) as we
pulled up outside our hotel. We?d been stitched up good and proper!
Sofia, nestled at the base of the Vitosha Mountain,
is not high on people?s list of city breaks in Europe.
If people do venture to Bulgaria,
it?s usually for the sand and sea of the Sunny Beach
resort to the east of the country, certainly not to the relatively unknown
capital in the interior. This was confirmed by the sheer lack of tourists as we
wandered along a main city street, heading for some of the main sights. The
people around us were obviously the city?s inhabitants, older women with long
eyelashes and strange hair shades, younger people who could have been in any
European city, and occasionally, Orthodox priests, donning long back robes and
even stranger beards.
?Look at that woman?s melons!? said Angela
beside me. My eyes widened as I spotted the blonde girl in question. In the
poster, a girl was holding a large melon in one hand, a tray of cut melons in
the other. We wandered past, trying our best to keep in the shade.
Sofia is a very compact city. All the
major sights are congregated within walking distance of one another. And the
legacy of the Soviet era still pervades, especially with the Party House, once
the headquarters of the Communist Party. The massive red star on its roof was
only removed in 1990 after a mob tried to set it on fire. The area surrounding
the building was the place to be if you wanted to watch the militaristic might
of the Communist regime parading up and down. And speaking of espionage
straight out of a James Bond film, Bulgaria?s reputation in the 1970?s was
severely dirtied after the KGB were blamed for the death of Georgi Markov, a
dissident writer living in London working as a journalist for the BBC. When he
was walking along Water
Bridge in September 1978,
he was murdered after being stabbed with a poison-tipped umbrella. Fantastic!
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